Our Two-Week Journey Through Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka
Japan was the very first foreign country we visited on our big family adventure. If you’re curious about how (and why) we decided to take a year off to travel the world with our three young kids, you can read our story here . None of us had ever been before, and it completely blew us away. From futuristic cityscapes to ancient temples and everything in between, Japan is bursting with incredible places to explore. While we only had two weeks to see it all, we made the most of every moment and came away with memories that will last a lifetime.
Starting in Tokyo
We kicked off our journey in Tokyo and spent the first two nights at the Pearl Hotel in Shinjuku. It was one of the rare spots that allowed five people in a single room, a huge win for our family of five. Like most hotel rooms in Tokyo, space was tight, especially with three energetic kids and a few suitcases thrown into the mix. Still, at $290 for two nights, it felt like a solid deal for such a central location.
During our stay, we visited the Imperial Palace, or at least the small section that’s open to the public. One of our favorite Tokyo experiences was teamLab Borderless, a fully immersive digital art museum that captivated all of us. It was a bit pricey at 12,900 yen (about $86 USD for our family), but absolutely worth it. We wish we’d had time to visit teamLab Planets too!
Like any tourist in Tokyo, we made our way to the famous Shibuya Crossing. To be honest, it didn’t quite live up to the hype until we found a better way to view it. Skip the Starbucks and head to Magnet by Shibuya 109. They have a rooftop observation area on the 8th floor where you can watch the pedestrian chaos from above. Entry costs 1,800 yen (around $12 USD), and it includes one drink. Even better, kids under six are free.
We also checked out Tokyo Tower, which offers two observation levels: the Main Deck at 150 meters and the Top Deck at 250 meters. Prices vary, but for an adult, the Main Deck is 1,500 yen and the Top Deck starts at 3,300 yen online. Another must-see view of the city is from Shibuya Sky. You’ll want to book tickets at least a month in advance. Admission there is 2,500 yen (about $17 USD) for adults.
As for food, we had some delicious Harami beef and ramen while exploring Tokyo. The subway system was our best friend. It’s fast, efficient, and kids under six ride for free. Uber, on the other hand, is wildly expensive in Tokyo. Navigating the subway took a little getting used to, but it worked out well for our family.
Disneyland and DisneySea
After two busy days in Tokyo, we headed to the Hyatt Regency Tokyo Bay, our base for visiting Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea. The hotel was a breath of fresh air. Spacious enough for our family, super clean, and affordable at just $178 USD per night. They even offered shuttle service to the Disney parks.
Park tickets cost about $212 per day for all five of us, which felt like a bargain compared to Disney parks in the U.S. (though that didn’t include food or paid ride passes like Disney Premier Access).
At Tokyo Disneyland, we arrived around 8:25 AM for the 9:00 AM opening. It was easy to buy Express Passes and Disney Premier Access once inside, which helped us skip long lines. The Beauty and the Beast ride had a two-hour wait, so we opted for DPA for 10,000 yen (about $67 USD for the five of us). We also used DPA for Splash Mountain at 7,500 yen ($50 USD). Both rides were highlights of the day, along with Pooh’s Hunny Hunt. Disneyland felt very manageable in a single day.
Tokyo DisneySea, however, was another story. It’s an amazing park but a lot trickier to navigate, especially with the new Fantasy Springs area. We arrived at 8:05 AM for the 9:00 AM opening, but even then, we didn’t get through security and into the park until about 10 AM due to the horribly slow lines.
Fantasy Springs requires special access, you can only ride its attractions with Disney Premier Access, Express Pass, or Standby Pass. There’s no option to wait in a traditional line. We managed to snag DPA for Tangled but missed out on Frozen. Several guests we spoke to weren’t able to get on any of the Fantasy Springs rides, which caused a lot of frustration.
Our personal favorite ride at DisneySea was the Tower of Terror, which features a unique storyline different from the U.S. version. We rode it twice and had a blast. That said, many rides had 1–2 hour wait times, and not all of them were available for DPA. You’d likely need two full days here, and to really beat the crowds, some blogs recommend arriving by 6:00 AM, which is tough when it’s cold and you have tired kids in tow.
As much as we enjoyed the Disney parks, I still lean toward Universal Studios, especially for families with older kids or adults looking for more thrill rides.
Hakone: Onsens and Mountains
From Tokyo, we made our way to Hakone. A beautiful mountain town known for its hot springs. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency Hakone and booked a Regency Suite Tatami. It was spacious (88 square meters) and super comfortable for our family. Surprisingly, sleeping on the tatami mats was incredibly relaxing!
We were greeted by name and found a welcome bottle of wine, fruit, and snacks waiting in our room. That evening, we enjoyed a lovely happy hour in the lobby, followed by dinner at their sushi restaurant. It was a bit of a splurge at $185 USD, but the food and atmosphere made it well worth it.
Taking the kids to a traditional onsen was a memorable cultural experience. Definitely a little out of our comfort zone, but fun nonetheless. The next morning, we took the Hakone Ropeway, but unfortunately the rainy weather limited the views from the cable cars.
Despite the rain, Hakone was one of our favorite stops in Japan. Getting there by bus was challenging, the ride was crowded and standing wasn’t ideal with little ones. For the return trip, we opted for the train, which was far more comfortable. From there, we took the Shinkansen to Kyoto, where we spent the next three nights.
Kyoto: Culture and Cuisine
Kyoto is a city that blends history and charm. We spent our time exploring traditional districts, enjoying great food, and soaking in the city’s timeless beauty. We dined at several Michelin-rated restaurants, including Ramen Jyanomeya, where the chicken and soy sauce ramen was delicious. Even our pickiest eater loved their fried chicken.
Another standout was Gyoza Hohei in the heart of the Gion district. Their garlic gyoza and dipping sauces were next-level. This was actually one of our most affordable meals in Japan, and absolutely one of the best. Don’t skip the pickled cucumbers, they’re simple but so tasty!
Exploring the Gion district on foot was a highlight. We wandered down Hanami Lane and the Shirakawa area, soaking in the atmosphere. A visit to Yasaka Pagoda is a must, though it does get very busy. We also visited the iconic Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, but if you want a more peaceful experience, make the short 10-minute walk to Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple Bamboo Forest. The small entrance fee is well worth it for the serenity and beauty.
Kyoto is one of those cities that leaves you wanting more. We’d love to return someday and explore even deeper.
A Day in Nara
We took a day trip to Nara, home of the famous free-roaming deer. Feeding them was a fun experience, though the male deer can get a little aggressive. Be careful—they will nip at you if they’re hungry! Nara is beautiful and would definitely be worth more than just a quick visit if your schedule allows.
Wrapping Up in Osaka
Our final stop was Osaka, where we visited Osaka Castle, a truly majestic landmark. We also made our way to the Umeda Sky Building, which offers breathtaking 360-degree views of the city from its open-air rooftop. Admission was 2,000 yen (about $13 USD) per adult, and there’s even a reasonably priced café at the top.
We explored the Dotonbori area, sampling all kinds of delicious street food. We spent four days in Osaka, which in hindsight was a bit too long. We probably should have used one of those days for a trip to Kobe or Hiroshima, but by then, we were worn out and ready for a slower pace.
We stayed at Caption by Hyatt, a great base for discovering the city.
Final Thoughts
Japan exceeded every expectation. While two weeks wasn’t nearly enough to see it all, we left with full hearts and unforgettable memories. Traveling with kids in Japan was a unique experience, challenging at times, but always rewarding. We can’t wait to go back someday and dive even deeper into this fascinating country.
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